Follow Your Arrow

Yesterday the trek from Arrés to Jaca was harder than expected. Once again I arrived in a town – Santa Cilia – and the one bar in town was closed. I had planned Santa Cilia to be lunch stop for the day, but this was not to be. So, I walked on for another 14 km. Thankfully, I had packed enough water for the day and I ate my last protein bar for lunch. After 24 km and 8.5 hours on my feet, I was happy to get to my hotel. And this was a hotel AND spa – a splurge of sorts and outside the usual Camino experience. Dana and I had planned for this as a little treat for ourselves before heading to Canfranc for our volunteer gig. I so enjoyed the jacuzzi and sauna, a perfect antidote for my aching back.

In Jaca today, we stocked up on groceries at the supermarket – 3 large bags full of provisions that would get us through the first several days at the albergue. Canfranc Pueblo, where we will volunteer for the next two weeks, has no grocery store. I also had to buy some tights to wear under my thin hiking pants because Canfranc is experiencing a cold snap – it was -1 Celsius but felt like -4 with the whipping wind. And snow is predicted. Canfranc sits at the base of the Pyrenees, so this is not entirely surprising, but I had not prepared for winter weather. I really wish I had packed some gloves.

I had originally planned to walk from Jaca to Canfranc, but adjusted my itinerary to accommodate the procurement needs for the albergue that seemed important. Sometime within the next few days, I will take the bus to Jaca and walk back to Canfranc Pueblo to complete my Camino Aragones. It promises to be a lovely 20 km walk.

Once at the albergue today, we met Al and Liz, the current hospitaleros, who oriented us to the workings of the albergue: showing us where to find supplies, how to work the washing machine and dryer, how to check folks in, how to manage the books. This albergue – Elias Valiña – is a “donativo,” which means that people who stay here pay what they can. But only Pilgrims with their Camino “credencials” who arrive by foot or bicycle are eligible to stay. This is not a place for the Camino tourist. We have just one Pilgrim staying with us tonight – someone from Germany who crossed over the Pyrenees, through snowy conditions, from France. She was appreciative of a warm shower and a cozy place to rest.